Eat+Drink

Enjoy the food. Savor the conversation.



Lovin’ this….oysters on the westside!

Classic Tables: Water Grill  

A downtown institution for seafood comes to Santa Monica  

Long before a fascination with retro seafood dishes rolled over the city like a salty wave, Downtown’s Water Grill was the hands-down favorite for elegant surf-and-turf: chilled shrimp Louie salad ($26), bowls of garlicky cioppino ($32) brimming with shellfish and an impeccably fried plate of fish and chips ($26).

It’s no coincidence that L.A.’s two most prominent seafood chefs, Michael Cimarusti and David LeFevre, both spent time running Water Grill’s kitchen over the years before opening their own projects (Damon Gordon is currently at the helm).

Twenty-four years after its original debut, Water Grill has added a ritzy second location along Santa Monica’s Ocean Avenue, complete with panoramic seaside views, a burnished copper raw bar, puffy leather booths and schooner-inspired wall hangings.

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Frank Bruni is sooo good and soooo right!  There is nothing better than being welcomed at your favorite “spot”.  And nothing better than bringing the people you love there too.  This is Eat+Drink’s entire goal - to show you the places we love.

Familiarity Breeds Content

Frank Bruni, Former Restaurant Critic, on the Joys of Repeat Visits

What a cad I used to be, constantly ditching the bistro that had opened only four months ago for the week-old trattoria with an even dewier complexion, callously trading in the yellowtail sashimi that had been so good to me for a hot tamale of unproven charms.

Then, a few years back, the restaurant Barbuto and I settled down.

It’s bliss. She knows my heart, knows my drill: a gin martini to begin, a seasonal salad for my appetizer, the roasted chicken after.

And I know her. If the weather’s nice, a breeze will blow in from the West Village streets that her retractable walls open onto. The kale that she serves me will be sparingly dressed. And the breast meat? As plump and tender as it was the last time around and the dozen times before that.

We don’t have fireworks, not this late in the game. But we have a rhythm. Sometimes that’s better.

What I’m saying is that I’m a regular there, as I am at the Breslin, whose lamb burger is as true to me as I am to it; at Empellón Taqueria, where I never stray from the fish tempura tacos, which never let me down; at Szechuan Gourmet, where I don’t glance at a menu. I don’t have to.

I’m no monogamist, that’s clear. More of a polygamist, but I dote on my sister wives. I’ve come to see that the broccolini isn’t always greener on the other side of Houston Street, and I’m here to sing what’s too seldom sung: the joys of familiarity. The pleasures of intimacy. The virtues of staying put.

What you have with a restaurant that you visit once or twice is a transaction. What you have with a restaurant that you visit over and over is a relationship.

The fashionable script for today’s food maven doesn’t encourage that sort of bonding, especially not in a city with New York’s ambition and inexhaustible variety. Here you’re supposed to dash to the new Andrew Carmellini brasserie before anybody else gets there; be the first to taste ABC Cocina’s guacamole; advertise an opinion about the Massaman curry at Uncle Boons while others are still puzzling over the fugitive apostrophe. Snap a photo. Tweet it. Then move on. There’s always something else. Always virgin ground.

For years, I was dedicated to exploring it, by dint of my duty as The Times’s restaurant critic. I was a paid philanderer. It was exhilarating. It was exhausting.

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Love!

Latino Winemakers Rise in California, Through the Ranks

SONOMA, Calif. — It is harvest season in wine country, the time of year when the scent of crushed grapes infuses the air and flatbed trucks heavy with fruit cargo come lurching down narrow back roads.

For the winemaker Everardo Robledo — who grew up working in the fields alongside his father, Reynaldo, on weekends and after school — the harvest has a particular emotional resonance: a measure of how far the family has come since his Mexican immigrant grandfather drifted from one migrant labor camp to another and his father toiled in the vineyards for $1.10 an hour.

Mr. Robledo, 30, and his family are part of a tiny but growing fraternity of Mexican-American winemakers, many of them farmworkers’ children who now pursue wine business degrees or study viticulture and oenology at the University of California, Davis. “It’s what we have been doing all our lives,” the younger Mr. Robledo said of picking, pruning, trellising, planting and “suckering,” or removing unwanted shoots from vines. “The land is in our DNA.”

For tourists here and in other wine-producing regions, the harvest is an opportunity to swirl, sniff and sip wine, stomp grapes and revel in dinners by master chefs. In Sonoma, visitors can experience an annual “grape camp” whose Web site advertises “three blissful days” picking grapes.

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I’m sure every pizza joint on this list is amazing but I do think it’s a little lame that the only good pizza in LA is supposedly Mozza.  It’s good pizza but we all know the attitude isn’t worth going back after attempt 3 or 4.  I’ve even learned how to MAKE pizza there but don’t need to go back.  Although I will say that I was incredibly impressed with CHI SPACCA last week (review coming soon).  Stella Barra is amazing and so are a number of other joints around town!

The 38 Essential Pizzas Across the Country

The appeal of the pizza seems to know no bounds. While New York, Chicago, and San Francisco are all packing a number of absurdly great pizzerias, an excellent pie can be had just about anywhere in the country. And in just about any style: thin-crust, New York, deep dish, Detroit, bar, New Haven, Chicago, grilled, California, tomato pies, and Neapolitan among them. This last style seems to have taken particular root over the last decade with pizza-makers across the country importing ovens from Naples and churning out margherita pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala.

The question, of course, is which of these restaurants qualify as absolute must-stop pizzerias for the novice as well as the pizza snob. Earlier this year, Eater unveiled the Eater National Burger 38 in the grand tradition of the lists local sites have been putting out for years. And now, ladies and gentlemen, it is time to present the Eater National Pizza 38, the 38 essential pizzerias (and restaurant pizzas) across the country.

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Sometimes I wonder if we’re doing this tipping thing all wrong.

Leaving a Tip: A Custom in Need of Changing?

Try one of these techniques if you want better service in restaurants:

1. Become very famous;

2. Spend $1,000 or more on wine every time you go out;

3. Keep going to the same restaurant until you get V.I.P. treatment; if that doesn’t work, pick another place.

Now, here is a technique that is guaranteed to have no effect on your service: leave a generous tip.

I’ve tipped slightly above the average for years, generally leaving 20 percent of the total, no matter what. According to one study, lots of people are just like me, sticking with a reasonable percentage through good nights and bad. And it doesn’t do us any good, because servers have no way of telling that we aren’t the hated type that leaves 10 percent of the pretax total, beverages excluded.

Some servers do try to sniff out stingy tippers, engaging in customer profiling based on national origin, age, race, gender and other traits. (The profiling appears to run both ways: another study showed that customers tended to leave smaller tips for black servers.)

I could go on against tipping, but let’s leave it at this: it is irrational, outdated, ineffective, confusing, prone to abuse and sometimes discriminatory. The people who take care of us in restaurants deserve a better system, and so do we.  

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Fascinating….

Georgia Olive Farms Oil, A Must-Have in Sean Brock’s Pantry

This Georgia state olive oil is distinctly Southern

Sean Brock takes the idea of local very seriously. He gets his truffles from Tennessee and sources his cured country hams from Kentucky. Now, for his Husk restaurants in Charleston and Nashville, the chef doesn’t have to look very far for olive oil, either.

Georgia Olive Farms released their incredibly smooth, clean-tasting oil ($32 for 500 ml) in 2011.

Brock likes what’s being pressed from Peach State olives.

“We treat it like gold,” the chef says. “The flavor of this oil is very fruity and has little to no spice, which makes it much more versatile.”

Georgia’s actually no newcomer to homegrown oil.

“Spanish settlers were growing olives on the coast as late as the 1860s,” says Georgia Olive Farms owner Jason Shaw. “We don’t know why it stopped.”

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eatplusdrink:

I’m sure many of you here in Los Angeles saw last week that the first LA Diner en Blanc took place on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.  1300 people showed up dressed in white for dinner.  It looked amazing!

The Eat+Drink Supper Club had our own mini diner en blanc a couple weeks ago with our french David Feau dinner.  It WAS amazing!

Well now there is a documentary about this phenomenon called “Diner en Blanc: The World’s Largest Dinner Party”.  I don’t know what it is about this trailer but it made me cry.  Maybe it’s the collective goal of everyone coming together to have an amazing dinner.  Maybe it’s that my lovely friend from France, Jacqueline, told me about this months and months ago.  I don’t know.  But I love it.

“Diner en Blanc: The World’s Largest Dinner Party”